Without further chit-chat, let’s dive right into the details. We will be going through it one by one to assist you in this vehicle maintenance. There are a number of do’s and don’ts when it comes to spraying substances in a spark plug hole. If you’re experiencing this dilemma, don’t worry, you’re not alone in this one, nor are you the first one to face it. This is where many drivers face the common issue of deciding what to spray in spark plug hole. So, cleaning and handling spark plug holes shouldn’t be overlooked at all. Bought in bulk I can assure you that the cost per fluid ounce would then be around a nickel.Spark plug holes can collect a lot of debris and oily substances, which affect its performance. A 5 gallon jug split 5 ways will keep most riders in clean chains for a good year. Not to mention that the fumes are a lot less toxic.Īnd if the cost bothers you get four other buddies together and buy Varsol in bulk from one of the local fuel and oil suppliers in the area. Of course you need to get one of the chain cleaning gizmos or take the chain off and slosh it in a jar instead of spray, wipe, oil and ride but for the slight extra time it takes I'd still say that a proper solvent is the winner cost wise. And again factor in the multi use ability of the mineral spirits vs spraying onto the ground with the starter fluid and it's a slam dunk win for MS as a cleaning solvent cost wise. Still think it's a bargain? Even if the stuff goes up to a total of $12 a gallon for a US gallon with it's 128 floz we're still talking about less than 10 cents per floz vs 20 cents or more an oz for the starter fluid. Also we're talking multi use for the mineral spirits to single use for the starter fluid. At $2 for a 10 oz can that's 20 cents an oz for the starter fluid. So that's around $9.50 for 133 floz or 8.3 cents per oz. Then they tack on an "environmental fee" tax of another buck and a half just because the government are idiots. Up this way a 4.4 liter (the old imperial gallon size) of mineral spirits in the disguise of "low odor paint thinner" is around $8. That uses up a lot of fluid.Īnd a can of starter fluid is what? Maybe 8 oz? Or 10 if it's a large "economy" size? By letting the gunk settle out of the mineral spirits I can re-use the same stuff for a good 8 to 10 cleanings vs one time use. One pass to soften things up and then a second pass to blast the gunk away. And with any strong detergents or any solvent at all it is well worth wearing good nitrile solvent resistant gloves.Īnd let's not forget how much you'd use if you were only spraying the gunk away. Some of the gallon jug options may require a bit of work with a brush to clean the stuff but you don't usually need much of it and so the cost is a lot less. ANYTHING in an aerosol can is more pricey to buy per volume than stuff that comes in a big gallon jug. Especially when there are so many other options that are cheaper, less flammable and not quite as damaging options to our bodies out there. To the OP, your mechanic wasn't wrong but he's stupid for recomending something that is quite pricey to buy, so blatantly flammable and hard on the human body. And all the stuff in this thread is good at removing oils. After all our skin is flexible largely due to the fatty OILS in it. It's not that uncommon for this to happen with strong degreasing solvents in contact with skin. I've had that before from exposure to model airplane dope thinner (similar to lacquer thinner) when using it for a few days. oopsWhat you got was a case of solvent induced eczema. I did and had VERY dry fingers with really rough irritated skin for like 10 days. Don't try Brake cleaner with bare hands either.
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